My interest lies in the urban planning aspect of the disaster and also the human story told from the tragedy. I was (and still am) so interested in the disaster that in November 2015 I decided to dedicate a few days on my solo trip to Japan to visit the Tohoku Region and see for myself what the recover and reconstruction efforts were like at the time. Mind you that when I visited there, it was 4.5 years after the earthquake. The accounts and photos below are only a snapshot of time, which was November 29, 2015. The places I visited included:
1. Matsushima 松島町
2. Kesennuma 気仙沼市
3. Rikuzentakata 陸前高田市
Matsushima 松島町:
This town is an urban extension of Sendai, the largest city in the Tohoku Region. Matsushima is located on a bay and consist of many small islands and islets. It is said that Matsushima Bay is the one of three most scenic places of all of Japan. The bay itself is protected by much larger islands, which form a protective cove. When the tsunami hit in 2011, this area saw relatively little damage. But of course, it is relative. When you visit the tourist information centre located at the waterfront there are photos of the aftermath of the tsunami. There is even a sign posted of the maximum height of the tsunami. As the photo suggest, I would have drowned. I think my facial expression tells you how I was feeling at the time
Kesennuma 気仙沼市:
This town is located about two hours on the Shinkansen and local train from Sendai. This town is closer to the epicentre than Matsushima and sustained more damage, especially along its coastline. Prior to the earthquake this region was considered the backwaters of the prosperous Kanto and Kansai Regions of Japan. After the earthquake this is even more the case. In order to draw more tourists from around the country and the world, and to liven the spirits of local children affected by the disaster, JR (Japan Rail) teamed up to create a special car known as "Pokemon with You". Yes you heard it right, the Pokemon Train. I think the photos says it all. It is a dream of all Pokemon lovers out there. I only heard about this from a YouTube video [Link] and its draw certainly enticed me to come to this area. More information on the train can be found in the official website [Link].
Kesennuma luckily is mostly on higher ground so the majority of the town was not destroyed. However, the industrial area and ports were washed away. This town, like all the others, depend on the fishing industry. Without a port means the industry is pretty much crippled. After taking the Pokemon Train, I took the BRT from the train station. As the disaster destroyed key transportation routes along the coast, infrastructure are sometimes rebuilt in different locations. In other instances, the damage is so severe, but the ridership is so low, that investing in the rail line's reconstruction would be too expensive. A BRT is more simple as the right of way is already available and the infrastructure cost is lower. Add some asphalt and build a few bus stops, and you pretty much have a BRT network. However, it still uses some of the highways in order to get to my destination, Rikuzentakata.
Rikuzentakata 陸前高田市:
So this is the town that was commonly known to have been "wiped off the map". There are a few of these towns and this is one of the more well known ones because of the extent of damage. Although one might think to just abandon the town and build at higher ground, in the true spirit of the people (or stubbornness, depending on how you see it), the national government decided to rebuild the town on the same land, except this time the elevation is increased by building these massive 30-40 feet high plots of land. The new town will sit on these new elevated land. At the time of the visit in November 2015, they had just completed this phase of the reconstruction and they began dismantling these massive conveyor belts that stretches for miles from the hillsides to the west. To find fill, they obliterated several hills and use the conveyor belts to transport soil and fill 24 hours a day, rather than use hundreds of dump trucks. This was efficient and quick. This whole area was a huge construction site.
From the BRT stop you walk towards the coastline and come across a few arrows. One points to the Lone Miracle Pine, so named because what stood in the area were tens of thousands of pine trees planted hundreds of years ago to protect the town from typhoons. Every single tree was washed away except this one. Sadly months after the tsunami, it too died due to salination of the soil. What you see today is a replica of the tree. This is a monument to the sadness and despair of the area. When you visit the area there is a feeling of dread and incredible sadness. You feel alone with no one around, but you also feel a lot of presence due to the stories of lives lost. The tall building to the left in the photo below was a dam to protect the port. Three lives were lost there as the volunteers frantically closed the flood gates, not knowing the tsunami was as tall as the building itself.
There are clearly other signs of the disaster all over what is left of the town. Concrete shells of buildings are what remained. Some of these will be preserved either as a museum, others will be repurposed. But the question is, who wants to live here again and relive the moments? After the two hour tour I quickly took the BRT back to civilization. I didn't want to be in this area after dark for sure.
As mentioned, the photos are only a snapshot in time and I am sure things are completely different from 1.5 years ago. Therefore I would like to extend the invitation to anyone who wants to visit these stricken parts of Japan, and to witness how disasters can impact human settlement, and also to see how the living are coping and rebuilding their lives. These areas are not as glamorous as Tokyo or Kyoto, but from an urban planning perspective and the issue of resilient cities, it is interesting how today's decisions will impact lives hundreds of years from now.